Telfar’s Takeover
By Zuza Gaboush
Image via The New York Times
For anyone who has social media or is aware of popular culture, the symbol of a T tucked inside of a C has become an insignia synonymous with the phenomenon that is Telfar. The first time I saw the logo was in the dorm room of a friend, a sleek tan bag perched on their desk, bold yet simple embossed letters staring back at me. From that moment on, I saw Telfar everywhere.
Telfar Clemens, the visionary and owner of the brand, Telfar, initially debuted his company in 2005. However, Telfar didn’t reach its global success and rise to compete with the largest names in fashion until 2020, when the pandemic arrived. While the rise of COVID-19 shocked and immobilized the rest of the fashion industry, Clemens utilized this window to exponentially grow and establish his company as one of the most prolific high fashion brands in history. But Telfar is not like the others. And this is the key to its major success.
Telfar Clemens was born in Queens, New York and attended Pace University for a degree in accounting. Before he graduated, he had already founded his brand and was involved in all aspects of its creation- a practice that he has only further immersed himself in today. As Telfar grew in its notoriety, Clemens began to distance himself from conventional methods of success dictated by the fashion industry. He refused an invitation to the 2019 Met Gala, ignored fashion show schedules and eventually ended all wholesale distribution of his clothing so that he was fully in control of all his sales, owning 100% of his business. This individuality immediately signified Telfar as a stand out brand and rocket launched it into fame. Clemens stepped into the world of high-fashion, saw the capitalist and exclusive institution with its rigid structures and singular methods of success, and said, ‘Nah. Imma do this my own way.’ He showed up to NYFW and re-appropriated the whole thing for himself, his brand, his community. As Jeremy O. Harris, a collaborator on Telfar’s fall/winter 2019 show stated, “America lives inside the Black queer brain of an immigrant.”
Much of Telfar’s success can be attributed to Clemen’s beliefs and determination as a designer. Existing as a queer, Liberian-American, Clemens has founded his personal and brand beliefs on the importance of financial, racial and gender inclusivity, making afforable uni-sex clothing that can be worn and appreciated by almost anyone. He is a radical inspiration that allows people from marginalized backgrounds to take note of his refusal to ‘play by the rules’ and conduct their paths of success according to their standards. Clemens has proved that anyone can harness the reins of a space not made or meant for them, and conform it to fit around your brand, yourself, your community. Clemens is using Telfar to adjust the lens through which high fashion is consumed, viewed and orchestrated. And it’s on his terms.
